Spencer Knitting Technology

A Comprehensive Handbook and Practical Guide
3. Auflage 2001
ISBN: 978-1-85573-755-6
Verlag: Elsevier Science & Techn.
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: 6 - ePub Watermark

E-Book, Englisch, 416 Seiten

Reihe: Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles

The third edition of Knitting Technology, widely recognised as the definitive text on the subject, has been thoroughly revised and updated to include all the latest developments. Beginning with the fundamental principles and moving on to more advanced aspects, it combines in a single comprehensive volume the basics of warp and weft knitting, fabric structures and products, the different types of machines, principles of production and terminology to provide an invaluable reference for textiles students, textile engineers and technicians involved in knitted garment design and manufacture.Fundamental rules and principles are emphasised throughout. Aspects covered include flat, circular, full fashioned, hosiery, raschel, tricot and crochet production. Development of the various types of knitting machines, their actions and mechanisms as well as the construction, properties and end uses of the products which they manufacture are also included.The book is indexed and referenced in detail and includes numerous labelled diagrams and photographs. Terminology is defined either according to The Textile Institute's terms and definitions or current usage in the industry and is supplemented where necessary by American or continental terminology. Although SI units and the tex yarn count system are explained and used in the text, other systems have also been employed wherever it has been considered that their usage is still important. A number of worked calculations are included to clarify the examples given.Knitting technology is the ideal textbook for a range of textile courses from technician to degree level and The Textile Institute's examinations as well as being an essential companion to all those involved in the knitting industry. - An essential reference for all textiles student textile engineers and technicians involved in knitted garment design and manufacture

David J. Spencer, C Text, FTI, ACFI, recently retired as a senior lecturer in Textile and Knitting Technology at De Montfort University Leicester. He has been an examiner and moderator in the Manufacture of Hosiery and Knitted Goods for the City and Guilds of London Institute. He has written numerous technical articles and is technical editor of the journal Knitting International and contributing editor of ATA Journal and China Textile Journal. He is Chairman of the Textile Institute Knitting Terms and Definitions Committee. He obtained his initial industrial experience with Corah of Leicester who were then world leaders in the application of knitting technology.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Spencer, D J

Inhaltsverzeichnis

1;Front Cover;1
2;Knitting Technology: A Comprehensive Handbook and Practical Guide;4
3;Copyright Page;5
4;Table of Contents;8
5;Dadication;6
6;List of figures;16
7;Preface;23
8;Acknowledgements;25
9;Chapter
1. An introduction to textile technology;28
9.1;1.1 The evolution of textiles;28
9.2;1.2 Textile fabrics;28
9.3;1.3 Textile yarns and fibres;30
9.4;1.4 Yarn count numbering systems;31
9.5;1.5 Conversion formulae;32
10;Chapter 2. From hand knitting to hand frame knitting;34
10.1;2.1 The evolution of hand knitting;34
10.2;2.2 The spread of knowledge of hand pin knitting;34
10.3;2.3 The principles of hand knitting using two pins;35
10.4;2.4 The invention of the stocking hand frame;36
10.5;2.5 The bearded needle;37
10.6;2.6 The principles of frame knitting;37
10.7;2.7 The evolution of other weft knitting machines;39
10.8;2.8 The development of warp knitting;39
10.9;2.9 The potential of knitting technology;40
10.10;2.10 Meeting the challenge of new markets;41
11;Chapter 3. General terms and principles of knitting technology;43
11.1;3.1 Machine knitting;43
11.2;3.2 The knitted loop structure;43
11.3;3.3 A course;43
11.4;3.4 A wale;44
11.5;3.5 Stitch density;44
11.6;3.6 Technically upright;45
11.7;3.7 Design appearance requirements;45
11.8;3.8 The main features of the knitting machine;45
11.9;3.9 The needle;46
11.10;3.10 Fabric draw-off;46
11.11;3.11 The front of rectilinear needle bar machines;46
11.12;3.12 The basic knitting action of a needle;47
11.13;3.13 The bearded needle;47
11.14;3.14 The latch needle;49
11.15;3.15 Friction and frictionless needles;53
11.16;3.16 The bi-partite compound needle;53
11.17;3.17 A comparison of latch and compound needles;54
11.18;3.18 Machine gauge;56
12;Chapter 4. Basic mechanical principles of knitting technology;58
12.1;4.1 The sinker;58
12.2;4.2 The jack;60
12.3;4.3 Cams;60
12.4;4.4 The two methods of yarn feeding;63
12.5;4.5 The three methods of forming yarn into needle loops;64
13;Chapter
5. Elements of knitted loop structure;65
13.1;5.1 The needle loop;65
13.2;5.2 The sinker loop;66
13.3;5.3 Warp knitted laps;66
13.4;5.4 The overlap;67
13.5;5.5 The underlap;67
13.6;5.6 The closed lap;68
13.7;5.7 The open lap;68
13.8;5.8 Wrapping;69
13.9;5.9 The knitted stitch;69
13.10;5.10 The intermeshing points of a needle loop;70
13.11;5.11 The face loop stitch;70
13.12;5.12 The reverse loop stitch;70
13.13;5.13 Single-faced structures;71
13.14;5.14 Double-faced structures;71
13.15;5.15 A balanced structure;72
13.16;5.16 Face and reverse stitches in the same wale;72
13.17;5.17 Selvedged fabric;72
13.18;5.18 Cut edge fabric;72
13.19;5.19 Tubular fabric;72
13.20;5.20 Upright loop structures;73
13.21;5.21 Knitting notations;73
14;Chapter 6. Comparison of weft and warp knitting;75
14.1;6.1 Yarn feeding and loop formation;75
14.2;6.2 The two industries;76
14.3;6.3 Productivity;79
14.4;6.4 Machine design;79
14.5;6.5 Comparison of patterning and fabric structures;79
14.6;6.6 Course length and run-in per rack;80
14.7;6.7 Fabric quality;81
14.8;6.8 Structural modifications commonly used in weft and warp knitting;81
15;Chapter 7. The four primary base weft knitted structures;87
15.1;7.1 Introduction;87
15.2;7.2 Plain structure;88
15.3;7.3 Rib structure;94
15.4;7.4 Interlock structure;100
15.5;7.5 Purl structure;103
16;Chapter 8. The various types of weft knitting machines;109
16.1;8.1 Fabric machines and garment-length machines;109
16.2;8.2 Knitting welts and rib borders;110
16.3;8.3 Integral knitting;111
16.4;8.4 The three classes of weft knitting machines;112
17;Chapter 9. Stitches produced by varying the sequence of the needle loop intermeshing;117
17.1;9.1 Knitted stitches;117
17.2;9.2 The held loop;117
17.3;9.3 The drop or press-off stitch;118
17.4;9.4 The float stitch;119
17.5;9.5 Float plating;120
17.6;9.6 The tuck stitch;121
18;Chapter 10. Coloured stitch designs in weft knitting;127
18.1;10.1 Horizontal striping;128
18.2;10.2 Intarsia;129
18.3;10.3 Plating;131
18.4;10.4 Individual stitch selection;132
18.5;10.5 Jacquard design areas;137
18.6;10.6 Worked example;137
19;Chapter 11. Pattern and selection devices;142
19.1;11.1 Weft knitted patterns;142
19.2;11.2 Different lengths of butt;142
19.3;11.3 Different butt positions;144
19.4;11.4 Multi-step butt set-outs;145
19.5;11.5 Selection devices;145
19.6;11.6 Element selection;145
19.7;11.7 Selection area arrangement;147
19.8;11.8 Full jacquard mechanical needle selection;150
19.9;11.9 Multi-step geometric needle selection;150
19.10;11.10 Needle selection by disc;152
19.11;11.11 The pattern wheel;153
19.12;11.12 Pattern wheel design areas;155
19.13;11.13 Electronic needle selection;157
20;Chapter 12. Electronics in knitting;161
20.1;12.1 The disadvantages of mechanical control;161
20.2;12.2 The disadvantages of mechanical programming;161
20.3;12.3 The advantages of electronic control and programming;161
20.4;12.4 The compatibility of electronic signals and knitting data;162
20.5;12.5 Microprocessors and computers;163
20.6;12.6 The computerised knitting machine;163
20.7;12.7 Computer graphics and pattern preparation;164
20.8;12.8 The Stoll CAD pattern preparation system;167
20.9;12.9 The Shima total design system;171
21;Chapter 13. Circular fabric knitting;172
21.1;13.1 Weft knitted fabric production;172
21.2;13.2 Single- and double-jersey compared;173
21.3;13.3 Simple tuck and float stitch single-jersey fabrics;173
21.4;13.4 The history of double-jersey;174
21.5;13.5 Types of double-jersey structure;175
21.6;13.6 Non-jacquard double-jersey structures;175
21.7;13.7 Double jersey inlay;180
21.8;13.8 The modern circular fabric knitting machine;182
21.9;13.9 Versatility and quick response;184
21.10;13.10 The ‘contra’ knitting technique;185
21.11;13.11 Circular-machine production calculations;186
22;Chapter 14. Speciality fabrics and machines;188
22.1;14.1 The range of speciality fabrics;188
22.2;14.2 The production of fleecy on sinker-top machines;189
22.3;14.3 Fleecy interlock;191
22.4;14.4 Plush;191
22.5;14.5 The bearded needle sinkerwheel machine;192
22.6;14.6 Sinker plush knitted on single-jersey latch needle machines;192
22.7;14.7 Full-density patterned plush;194
22.8;14.8 Cut loop;194
22.9;14.9 Double-sided plush;194
22.10;14.10 Sliver or high-pile knitting;195
22.11;14.11 Wrap patterning;196
23;Chapter 15. Loop transfer stitches;198
23.1;15.1 Uses of loop transfer;198
23.2;15.2 The four main types of transfer stitches;198
24;Chapter 16. Welts, garment sequences and knitting to shape;206
24.1;16.1 The welt;206
24.2;16.2 Rib welts;208
24.3;16.3 Separation;210
24.4;16.4 Imparting shape during knitting;211
24.5;16.5 Integral garment knitting;220
25;Chapter 17. The straight bar frame and full-fashioning;221
25.1;17.1 The development of the straight bar frame;221
25.2;17.2 Fully-fashioned articles;223
25.3;17.3 Stocking production;223
25.4;17.4 Underwear and knitwear;223
25.5;17.5 Knitting motions of the straight bar frame;223
25.6;17.6 Knitting action of the plain straight bar frame;224
25.7;17.7 Loop transfer;228
25.8;17.8 The fashioning action;229
25.9;17.9 Automatic control;230
25.10;17.10 The welt;230
25.11;17.11 The rib-to-plain machine;231
25.12;17.12 Patterned structures;232
25.13;17.13 The challenge of latch needle machinery;232
26;Chapter 18. Flat knitting, basic principles and structures;234
26.1;18.1 History;234
26.2;18.2 The two types of flat machine;234
26.3;18.3 Flat machine gauges;235
26.4;18.4 Conversion from Cottons Patent to V-bed gauge;235
26.5;18.5 Knitting widths;235
26.6;18.6 Yarn counts;236
26.7;18.7 Simple hand-manipulated V-bed rib flat machines;236
26.8;18.8 Stitch cam settings;241
26.9;18.9 Spring-loaded cams;241
26.10;18.10 Two or more cam systems;242
26.11;18.11 Split cam-carriages;242
26.12;18.12 Direct and indirect yarn feed;243
26.13;18.13 Yarn carrier arrangement;243
26.14;18.14 Typical structures knitted on flat machines;245
27;Chapter 19. Automatic power flat knitting;251
27.1;19.1 History;251
27.2;19.2 The MacQueen concept;251
27.3;19.3 Power flat machines;252
27.4;19.4 The versatility of V-bed power flat knitting;252
27.5;19.5 Electronic controls replace mechanical controls;252
27.6;19.6 The garment sequence programme;253
27.7;19.7 Mechanical jacquard selection;253
27.8;19.8 The Shima Seiki electronic selection system;253
27.9;19.9 The take-down system;257
27.10;19.10 The fixed-stroke carriage traverse;257
27.11;19.11 Meeting the requirements of a shaping machine;258
27.12;19.12 The multiple-gauge technique;261
27.13;19.13 The split stitch;263
27.14;19.14 Multi-carriage flat machines;263
27.15;19.15 Seamless glove knitting;264
27.16;19.16 The WholeGarment knitting technique;264
27.17;19.17 The Shima model FIRST;267
27.18;19.18 The Tsudakoma TFK machine;268
28;Chapter 20. Circular garment-length machines;271
28.1;20.1 Circular versus flat machines;271
28.2;20.2 The double-cylinder garment-length machine;274
28.3;20.3 The RTR garment-length machine;277
28.4;20.4 Jumberca cylinder and dial and double-cylinder machines;280
28.5;20.5 Mecmor Variatex machines;280
28.6;20.6 The ‘seamless’ bodywear garment machine;282
29;Chapter 21. The manufacture of hosiery on small-diameter circular machines;283
29.1;21.1 Types of hosiery;283
29.2;21.2 Classes of hosiery machines;284
29.3;21.3 Gauge;285
29.4;21.4 The early development of ladies’ fine-gauge hosiery machines;285
29.5;21.5 The advent of nylon;286
29.6;21.6 Trends in fine-gauge hosiery since 1956;286
29.7;21.7 Ladder-resist structures;288
29.8;21.8 The development of the double-cylinder machine;289
29.9;21.9 Single-cylinder sock machines;289
29.10;21.10 Timing and control of mechanical changes on circular hosiery machines;289
29.11;21.11 Adjustment of loop length;291
29.12;21.12 The double-cylinder slider butt set-out;291
29.13;21.13 Production of heels and toes;292
29.14;21.14 Automatic separation;293
29.15;21.15 Seamed toe closing;294
29.16;21.16 Automatic toe closing on the knitting machine;294
29.17;21.17 Tights;297
30;Chapter 22. Aspects of knitting science;301
30.1;22.1 Knitted loop-shape and loop-length control;301
30.2;22.2 Loop length;302
30.3;22.3 Warp let-off;304
30.4;22.4 Weft knitted fabric relaxation and shrinkage;306
30.5;22.5 Knitted fabric geometry;307
30.6;22.6 Tightness factor;308
30.7;22.7 Robbing back;309
30.8;22.8 Needle bounce and high-speed knitting;310
30.9;22.9 The Cadratex unit;311
30.10;22.10 Positive needle control;311
31;Chapter 23. Basic warp knitting principles;313
31.1;23.1 Construction of warp knitted fabrics;313
31.2;23.2 The warp beams;314
31.3;23.3 The guide bar;314
31.4;23.4 The guides;314
31.5;23.5 Single needle bar structures;315
31.6;23.6 The pattern mechanism;316
31.7;23.7 The chain links;316
31.8;23.8 The electronic guide bar control system;318
31.9;23.9 The development of lapping diagrams and chain notations;318
31.10;23.10 Single- or double-needle overlaps;318
31.11;23.11 The five basic overlap/underlap variations;320
31.12;23.12 The direction of lapping at successive courses;320
32;Chapter 24. Classes of warp knitting machines;325
32.1;24.1 Characteristics of tricot and raschel machines;325
32.2;24.2 The tricot machine;325
32.3;24.3 The raschel machine;328
32.4;24.4 The compound-needle warp knitting machine;332
32.5;24.5 The crochet machine;333
32.6;24.6 The Waltex machine;338
32.7;24.7 Warping;338
33;Chapter 25. Plain tricot structures knitted with two full set guide bars;340
33.1;25.1 Rules governing two guide bar structures;340
33.2;25.2 Two bar tricot;343
33.3;25.3 Locknit;344
33.4;25.4 Reverse locknit;344
33.5;25.5 Sharkskin;344
33.6;25.6 Queenscord;345
33.7;25.7 Double atlas;346
33.8;25.8 Satin;346
33.9;25.9 Velour and velvet;346
33.10;25.10 Overfed pile structures;347
33.11;25.11 Typical run-in ratios for nylon yarns;348
34;Chapter 26. Surface interest, relief and open-work structures;349
34.1;26.1 Basic principles;349
34.2;26.2 Miss-lapping;350
34.3;26.3 Part-threaded guide bars;350
35;Chapter 27. ‘Laying-in’ and fall-plate;355
35.1;27.1 Laying-in and weft insertion;355
35.2;27.2 General rules governing laying-in in warp knitting;356
35.3;27.3 Mesh structures;357
35.4;27.4 Fall-plate patterning;357
35.5;27.5 Full-width weft insertion;360
35.6;27.6 Magazine weft insertion;361
35.7;27.7 Cut presser and miss-press structures;362
35.8;27.8 Spot or knop effects;364
35.9;27.9 Terry by the press-off method;365
36;Chapter 28. Multi guide bar machines and fabrics;367
36.1;28.1 The development of raschel lace;367
36.2;28.2 The success of raschel lace;367
36.3;28.3 Pattern guide bars;368
36.4;28.4 Guide bar nesting;369
36.5;28.5 Multi bar tricot lace machines;369
36.6;28.6 Chain links and electronic control of shogging;370
36.7;28.7 The summary drive;371
36.8;28.8 Raschel mesh structures;371
36.9;28.9 Marquisette and voile;375
36.10;28.10 Elasticised fabrics;376
36.11;28.11 Jacquard raschels;378
36.12;28.12 The Mayer Jacquardtronic multi-bar lace raschels;379
37;Chapter 29. Double needle bar warp knitting machines;384
37.1;29.1 Operating principles;384
37.2;29.2 Double needle bar basic lapping principles;385
37.3;29.3 Using two fully-threaded guide bars;385
37.4;29.4 The simplex machine;386
37.5;29.5 The double needle bar raschel;388
38;Chapter 30. Technical textiles;397
38.1;30.1 Markets for technical textiles;397
38.2;30.2 The properties of warp knitted structures;397
38.3;30.3 End-uses for technical textiles;398
38.4;30.4 Geotextiles;399
38.5;30.5 Knitted wire;399
38.6;30.6 The advantages of warp knitted nets;399
38.7;30.7 Composites;401
38.8;30.8 Warp knitted multi-axial weft insertion fabrics;401
38.9;30.9 Stitch bonding or web knitting;402
38.10;30.10 Spacer fabrics;403
38.11;30.11 Circular warp knitting;404
38.12;30.12 V-bed technical fabrics;404
39;Appendix;407
40;Index;408

Leseproben

Figures
1.1 Interweaving 2 1.2 Intertwining and twisting 2 1.3 Interlooping 3 2.1 The Madonna knitting Christ’s seamless garment 8 2.2 Hand pin knitting 8 2.3 The action of frame knitting 10 2.4 Hand frame (c. 1820) 11 2.5 Warp knitted fabric on the moon 13 3.1 Basic knitting action of a needle 20 3.2 Main parts of the bearded needle 21 3.3 Main features of the latch needle 23 3.4 Knitting action of the latch needle 25 3.5 Compound needle 27 3.6 Open-stem slide needle 27 4.1 Action of the loop-forming sinker 32 4.2 Action of the knock-over sinker 33 4.3 Loop forming by warp guides 33 4.4 Simple hand-turned Griswold type machine 36 5.1 Intermeshing points of a needle loop 38 5.2 Overlapping and underlapping (warp knitting) 39 5.3 The underlap shog 40 5.4 The closed lap 41 5.5 The open lap 41 5.6 The knitted stitch 42 5.7 An impossible intermeshing 43 5.8 Face- and reverse-meshed loops 44 6.1 Weft knitting 48 6.2 Warp knitting 49 6.3 Overlock seaming 50 6.4 Cup-seaming 50 6.5 Warp-knitted car upholstery 51 6.6 Loop extension and recovery 53 6.7 Yarn flow in knitted structure 53 6.8 Weft knitted loop transfer 53 6.9 The plating relationship of two yarns 56 6.10 Plating in weft knitting 57 6.11 Plating in warp knitting 57 6.12 The movement of loops to form open work 58 6.13 Bra and briefs made from elastic raschel lace fabric 59 7.1 The technical face of plain weft knitted fabric 61 7.2 The technical back of plain weft knitted fabric 62 7.3 The three-dimensional structure of plain weft knitting 62 7.4 Cross-section of knitting head of a single jersey machine 64 7.5 Knitting cycle of a single jersey latch needle machine 65 7.6 Sinker timing on a single jersey machine 66 7.7 Structure of 1 × 1 rib 67 7.8 Face and reverse loop wales in 1 × 1 rib 68 7.9 Rib set-outs 69 7.10 Knitting action of a circular rib machine 70 7.11 Needle cam timing for a circular rib machine 71 7.12 Synchronised timing 72 7.13 Delayed timing 72 7.14 Interlock fabric structure 73 7.15 Knitting interlock 75 7.16 Interlock cam system 76 7.17 Purl knitting using sliders 77 7.18 Purl fabric structure 77 7.19 Purl needle transfer action 79 7.20 Purl notation 79 7.21 Basket purl with a collecting course 80 7.22 Basket purl without a collecting course 80 7.23 Purl needle transfer using spring loaded cams 81 8.1 Sequential knitting 84 8.2 Mechanically controlled flat knitting machines 86 8.3 Mechanically controlled circular knitting machines 88 8.4 Mechanically controlled hosiery machines 88 9.1 Float stitch produced on a latch needle machine 91 9.2 Technical face of float stitch 92 9.3 Float plated fabric 93 9.4 Tuck stitch produced on a latch needle machine 94 9.5 Technical face of tuck stitch fabric 95 9.6 Commencing knitting on an empty rib needle 95 9.7 Successive tucks and floats on the same rib needle 96 9.8 Floating across four adjacent plain needles 97 9.9 Tucking over four adjacent plain needles 97 9.10 Selective tucking in the hook 98 9.11 Three step needle selection 98 9.12 Tucking on the latch 99 10.1 An attractive use of horizontal striping 101 10.2 Yarn carrier positioning for intarsia 102 10.3 Examples of intarsia designs knitted on an electronic V-bed machine 103 10.4 Single jersey jacquard 106 10.5 Accordion fabric 107 10.6 Rib jacquard 108 10.7 Three colour jacquard with birds eye backing 109 10.8 Combined links-links and three colour float jacquard 110 11.1 Miss, knit and tuck using different butt lengths 116 11.2 Multi-cam track needle butt control 117 11.3 Mirror repeat needle selection 119 11.4 The development of design areas using selection devices 121 11.5 Fixed pattern key selection 122 11.6 Geometric selection using Brinton trick wheels 124 11.7 Disc selection 126 11.8 Change of presser position from one revolution to the next 127 11.9 Three-step needle selection using a pattern wheel 128 11.10 The building of pattern areas over a number of machine revolutions using pattern wheel selection 129 11.11 Piezo-electronic rib jacquard machine 131 11.12 Moratronic needle selection 132 12.1 Electronic sampling machine 135 12.2 Knitting patterns and programmes generated using automatic routines 137 12.3 Simulated knit package 138 12.4 MKS knitting system for Windows 140 12.5 Linked windows options of fabric view and technical view 142 12.6 The FF programme inserts the control columns and, using the existing jacquard, generates the Sintral programme, which contains all the necessary data for machine control 143 13.1 Twill effects 146 13.2 Single jersey hopsack structure...