Schindler / Hauser Chemical Finishing of Textiles

1. Auflage 2004
ISBN: 978-1-84569-037-3
Verlag: Elsevier Science & Techn.
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: 6 - ePub Watermark

E-Book, Englisch, 224 Seiten

Reihe: Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles

The role of the textile finisher has become increasingly demanding, and now requires a careful balance between the compatibility of different finishing products and treatments and the application processes used to provide textiles with desirable properties. In one comprehensive book, Chemical finishing of textiles details the fundamentals of final chemical finishing, covering the range of effects that result from the interplay between chemical structures and finishing products.After an introductory chapter covering the importance of chemical finishing, the following chapters focus on particular finishing techniques, from softening, easy-care and permanent press, non-slip and soil-release, to flame-retardant, antistatic and antimicrobial. Within each chapter, sections include an introduction, mechanisms, chemistries, applications, evaluations and troubleshooting. The book concludes with a chapter on the future trends in chemical finishing.Chemical finishing of textiles is an essential reference for all academic and industrial textile chemists and for those studying textile education programmes. - Discusses the advantages and disadvantages of every important type of chemical finish - Combines technical understanding and practical experience concisely - Essential tool to assist in the demanding challenge of chemical finishing for textiles

Dr W. D. Schindler is Professor of Textile Chemistry and Textile Finishing at the University of Applied Sciences Hof, Germany. His main research interests are the chemistry of fibres, dyestuffs, textile auxiliaries, chemical finishing and textile chemical analysis. He published 39 papers and claimed several patents on new textile developments.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Schindler, W D

Hauser, P J

Inhaltsverzeichnis

1;Front Cover;1
2;Chemical Finishing of Textiles;2
3;Copyright Page;3
4;Table of Contents;4
5;Preface;10
6;Chapter 1. Introduction to chemical finishing;12
6.1;1.1 Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing;12
6.2;1.2 The challenge and charm of chemical finishing;13
6.3;1.3 Importance of chemical finishing;15
6.4;References;17
7;Chapter 2. Chemical finishing processes;18
7.1;2.1 Introduction;18
7.2;2.2 Application of chemical finishes;19
7.3;2.3 Drying wet textiles;31
7.4;2.4 Curing chemical finishes;32
7.5;2.5 Coating and laminating;34
7.6;References;37
7.7;Appendix: sample calculations;38
8;Chapter 3. Softening finishes;40
8.1;3.1 Introduction;40
8.2;3.2 Mechanisms of the softening effect;40
8.3;3.3 Typical softened textiles articles;42
8.4;3.4 Product types and their chemistry;42
8.5;3.5 Schematic comparison of important properties of softeners;47
8.6;3.6 Compatibility and combinability;47
8.7;3.7 Evaluation and testing methods;49
8.8;3.8 Particulars of and troubleshooting for softening finishes;50
8.9;References;52
9;Chaptet 4. Hand building finishes;54
9.1;4.1 Introduction;54
9.2;4.2 Definitions and terms;54
9.3;4.3 The hand building effect;55
9.4;4.4 Examples of textiles with hand building finishes;55
9.5;4.5 Typical hand builder chemistry;55
9.6;4.6 Evaluation methods;59
9.7;4.7 Troubleshooting for hand building finishes;61
9.8;References;61
10;Chapter 5. Easy-care and durable press finishes of cellulosics;62
10.1;5.1 Introduction;62
10.2;5.2 Mechanisms of easy-care and durable press finishing;63
10.3;5.3 Examples of textiles with easy-care and durable press finishes;65
10.4;5.4 Chemistry of easy-care and durable press finishes;66
10.5;5.5 Application methods;75
10.6;5.6 Compatibility with other finishes;78
10.7;5.7 Evaluation methods;78
10.8;5.8 Troubleshooting and practical problems;80
10.9;References;83
11;Chapter 6. Repellent finishes;85
11.1;6.1 Introduction;85
11.2;6.2 Mechanisms of repellency;86
11.3;6.3 Repellent chemistry;87
11.4;6.4 Evaluation of textiles treated with repellent finishes;95
11.5;6.5 Troubleshooting for repellent finishes and particularities;95
11.6;References;96
12;Chapter 7. Soil-release finishes;98
12.1;7.1 Introduction;98
12.2;7.2 Mechanisms of soil release;98
12.3;7.3 Soil-release chemistry;102
12.4;7.4 Evaluation of soil release;106
12.5;7.5 Troubleshooting for soil-release finishes;107
12.6;References;108
13;Chapter 8. Flame-retardant finishes;109
13.1;8.1 Introduction;109
13.2;8.2 Mechanisms of flame retardancy;109
13.3;8.3 Flame-retardant chemistry;113
13.4;8.4 Flame retardants for cellulose;114
13.5;8.5 Flame retardants for wool;119
13.6;8.6 Flame retardants for polyester;120
13.7;8.7 Flame retardants for nylon;121
13.8;8.8 Flame retardants for other fibres;122
13.9;8.9 Flame-retarding fibre blends;122
13.10;8.10 Novel approach to flame retardancy: intumescents;123
13.11;8.11 Evaluation of flame retardants;123
13.12;8.12 Troubleshooting for flame-retardant finishes and particularities;126
13.13;References;127
14;Chapter 9. Non-slip finishes;128
14.1;9.1 Introduction;128
14.2;9.2 Mechanisms of non-slip finishes;129
14.3;9.3 Chemistry of non-slip finishes;129
14.4;9.4 Application methods and combinability;129
14.5;9.5 Evaluation of non-slip finishes;130
14.6;9.6 Troubleshooting for non-slip finishes;131
14.7;References;131
15;Chapter 10. Antistatic finishes;132
15.1;10.1 Introduction;132
15.2;10.2 Mechanisms of antistatic finishes;134
15.3;10.3 Chemistry of antistatic finishes;134
15.4;10.4 Conductive fibres;136
15.5;10.5 Evaluation of antistatic finishes;137
15.6;10.6 Troubleshooting for antistatic finishes and particularities;138
15.7;References;139
16;Chapter 11. Anti-pilling finishes;140
16.1;11.1 Introduction;140
16.2;11.2 Pilling mechanism;140
16.3;11.3 Mechanisms and chemistry of anti-pilling finishes;143
16.4;11.4 Evaluation of anti-pilling finishes;144
16.5;11.5 Troubleshooting for anti-pilling finishes and compatibility;145
16.6;References;147
17;Chapter 12. Elastomeric finishes;149
17.1;12.1 Introduction;149
17.2;12.2 Elastomeric mechanism;150
17.3;12.3 Chemistry of elastomeric finishes;150
17.4;12.4 Evaluation of elastomeric finishes;152
17.5;12.5 Troubleshooting for elastomeric finishes and particularities;153
17.6;References;153
18;Chapter 13. Finishes to improve colour fastness;155
18.1;13.1 Introduction;155
18.2;13.2 Improved wet fastness;155
18.3;13.3 Improved light fastness;160
18.4;13.4 Improved crocking and rubbing fastness;164
18.5;References;166
19;Chapter 14. Ultraviolet protection finishes;168
19.1;14.1 Introduction;168
19.2;14.2 Mechanism of UV protection;169
19.3;14.3 Chemistry of UV protection finishes;171
19.4;14.4 Evaluation of UV protection finishes;173
19.5;14.5 Troubleshooting for UV protection finishes and combinability;174
19.6;References;174
20;Chapter 15. Antimicrobial finishes;176
20.1;15.1 Introduction;176
20.2;15.2 Properties of an effective antimicrobial finish;177
20.3;15.3 Mechanisms of antimicrobial finishes;177
20.4;15.4 Chemistry of antimicrobial finishes;178
20.5;15.5 Evaluation of antimicrobial finishes;182
20.6;15.6 Troubleshooting for antimicrobial finishes;183
20.7;References;185
21;Chapter 16. Insect resist and mite protection finishes;186
21.1;16.1 Introduction;186
21.2;16.2 Mechanisms of insect resist finishes;186
21.3;16.3 Chemistry of insect resist finishes;188
21.4;16.4 Application of insect resist finishes;189
21.5;16.5 Evaluation of insect resist finishes;189
21.6;16.6 Troubleshooting for insect resist finishes;189
21.7;16.7 Finishes for protection from dust mites;190
21.8;References;190
22;Chapter 17. Finishing with enzymes: bio-finishes for cellulose;192
22.1;17.1 Introduction;192
22.2;17.2 Action of cellulase enzymes on cellulose;194
22.3;17.3 Chemistry of enzyme finishing;195
22.4;17.4 Evaluation of bio-finishing;197
22.5;17.5 Troubleshooting for bio-finishing;197
22.6;References;198
23;Chapter 18. Novel finishes;200
23.1;18.1 Introduction;200
23.2;18.2 Anti-odour and fragrance finishes;200
23.3;18.3 Fibre surface modifying finishes using plasma and radiation technologies;204
23.4;18.4 Fibre surface modification by sol–gel finishes with inorganic oxide films;205
23.5;References;208
24;Chapter 19. Actual and future trends in chemical finishing;209
24.1;19.1 Introduction;209
24.2;19.2 Cost reduction and greater efficiency;209
24.3;19.3 New kinds of effects;209
24.4;19.4 Fewer undesirable side effects;211
24.5;19.5 Easier application;211
24.6;19.6 Microencapsulation, a new trend for storage and release of active finishing products;211
24.7;19.7 Greater permanence in washing and chemical cleaning;212
24.8;19.8 Easier care of the finished textiles;213
24.9;19.9 Better ecology;213
24.10;19.10 Using fewer chemicals;214
24.11;19.11 Smart textiles by chemical finishing;215
24.12;19.12 Summary and outlook;216
24.13;References;217
25;Index;218

Leseproben

1 Introduction to chemical finishing
1.1 Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing
Textile wet processing can be thought of having three stages, pretreatment (or preparation), coloration (dyeing or printing) and finishing. Finishing in the narrow sense is the final step in the fabric manufacturing process, the last chance to provide the properties that customers will value. Finishing completes the fabric’s performance and gives it special functional properties including the final ‘touch’. But the term finishing is also used in its broad sense: ‘Any operation for improving the appearance or usefulness of a fabric after it leaves the loom or knitting machine can be considered a finishing step’.1 This broad definition includes pretreatments such as washing, bleaching and coloration. In this book the term finishing is used in the narrow definition to include all those processes that usually follow coloration and that add useful qualities to the fabric, ranging from interesting appearance and fashion aspects to high performance properties for industrial needs. This definition may be applied to similar finishing processes for grey fabrics (without coloration). Bleaching and carbonisation are chemical treatments that also improve the quality of fabrics. They are not treated in this book because they belong typically in pretreatment, although there are rare exceptions. Most finishes are applied to fabrics such as wovens, knitwear or nonwovens. But there are also other finishing processes, such as yarn finishing, for example sewing yarn with silicones and garment finishing (see Chapter 2.2.5). Textile finishing can be subdivided into two distinctly different areas, chemical finishing and mechanical finishing. Chemical finishing or ‘wet finishing’ involves the addition of chemicals to textiles to achieve a desired result (see Chapter 2). Physical properties such as dimensional stability and chemical properties such as flame retardancy can both be improved with chemical finishing. Typically, the appearance of the textile is unchanged after chemical finishing. Mechanical finishing or ‘dry finishing’ uses mainly physical (especially mechanical) means to change fabric properties and usually alters the fabric appearance as well. Mechanical finishing also encompasses thermal processes such as heat setting (thermal finishing). Typical mechanical finishes include calendering, emerising, compressive shrinkage, raising, brushing and shearing or cropping, and especially for wool fabrics milling, pressing and setting with crabbing and decatering. A summary of mechanical finishing has recently appeared. 2 Often mechanical and chemical finishing overlap. Some mechanical finishes need chemicals, for example milling agents for the fulling process or reductive and fixation agents for the decatering of wool fabrics. On the other hand chemical finishing is impossible without mechanical assistance, such as fabric transport and product application. The assignment to mechanical or chemical finishing depends on the circumstance, if the major component of the fabric’s improvement step is more mechanical- or chemical-based. This book will focus on the chemical finishing of textiles, the application of relatively minor amounts of chemicals (often < 5 g m- 2) to, in most cases, both sides of the fabric. Subsequent chapters will discuss the importance of each specific finish, the chemical mechanism for the effect, the chemicals used to provide the desired properties, the application and fixation procedures, the relevant evaluation methods and trouble shooting tips. Processes that employ high levels of chemical application (15–50 g m- 2 and more), primarily as one-sided treatments, such as coating are addressed only briefly in Chapter 2. 1.2 The challenge and charm of chemical finishing
The proper formulation of chemical finishes requires consideration of several important factors: the type of textile being treated (fibre and construction); the performance requirements of the finish (extent of effect and durability); the cost to benefit ratio; restrictions imposed on the process by availability of machinery, procedure requirements, environmental considerations; and compatibility of different formula components as well as the interaction of the finishing effects. To bring all these parameters to an acceptable compromise is not easy, even for a single purpose finish. But usually several types of finishes are combined for economical reasons mostly in one bath (only one application and drying process). This is often the hardest challenge of chemical finishing. First, all components of the finish bath must be compatible. Precipitations of anionic with cationic products have to be avoided. The emulsion stability of different products may be reduced by product interactions. More difficult is often the second hurdle, the compatibility of the primary and secondary effects of the different types of finishes that are being combined: • Some effects are similar or assist each other, for example silicone elastomers cause water repellency, softeners bring about antistatic effects and antistatic finishes can be softening. • Some effects are obviously contradictory, for example hydrophobic finishes and hydrophilic antistatic finishes, or stiffening and elastomeric finishes, or stiffening and softening finishes. • Other types of finishes typically reduce the main effect of a finish type, for example the flame retardant effect is decreased by nearly all other types of chemical finishes as they add flammable components to the fabric. • Fortunately true antagonistic effects are rare, but true synergistic effects are also rare, where the resulting effect of a combination is greater than the sum of the single effects of the combined products. Examples of both cases are different types of flame retardants. Thus the finisher is glad when the combined products do not interfere, neither in the finishing bath nor on the fabric, with all their different effects, but this usually is the exception rather than the rule. This discussion of the interaction of the primary effects of the combined products can be expanded to their secondary effects, the desired and the undesired ones. Obviously this task quickly approaches confusion. It is not surprising that successful chemical finishing is sometimes thought of as being nearly magical. As Rouette wrote in Fundamentals of Textile Finishing: Nowhere in textile finishing does the formulation of recipes need such a special knowledge, almost comparable to a secret science, than in chemical finishing.3 Table 1.1 gives some of the general requirements expected of a chemical finish. As can be seen, they can be quite daunting. One future challenge for chemical finishing is the ever increasing concern over environmental and ecological issues. Traditional chemistries and manufacturing methods must be changed and modified to meet the new realities of our modern world. Table 1.1 General requirements of chemical finishes Thus it is not surprising that an expert system was developed (TEXPERTO from Clariant), where the experience of many finishing experts is combined in a software program that enables less experienced finishers to create successful finishing recipes interactively with a computer. This computer-aided generation of recipes starts with detailed questions about the textile article to be finished, followed by a profile of requirements for the chemical finish. Included are questions concerning restrictions, for example cost limits, available machinery, process steps and environmental limitations. This expert system incorporates most of the different requirements and factors that have to be considered when formulating a demanding finishing recipe. This recipe formulation is not only a challenge but also a charming task. For those finishers who have the knowledge and some experience, chemical finishing is an inspiring and fascinating job, where the interaction of chemical understanding, technical grasp, textile feeling and an instinct for market trends leads to considerable success and increased value (both in the worth of the finished fabric and in the esteem of the finish designer). 1.3 Importance of chemical finishing
Chemical finishing has always been an...