Fan / Yu / Hunter Clothing Appearance and Fit

Science and Technology
1. Auflage 2004
ISBN: 978-1-84569-038-0
Verlag: Elsevier Science & Techn.
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: Adobe DRM (»Systemvoraussetzungen)

E-Book, Englisch, 260 Seiten

Reihe: Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles

Fashion and beauty have helped shape history and today more than ever, we find ourselves under increasing pressure to think about what we wear, what we look good in and how best to enhance our body shape and size. Behind this seemingly superficial industry, however, lies a technical thinking firmly grounded in science and technology. In one fully comprehensive book, Clothing appearance and fit: Science and technology provides a critical appreciation of the technological developments and scientific understanding of the appearance and fit of clothing. The authors bridge the science of beauty and fashion design with garment evaluation technology, garment drape and human anthropometrics and sizing.The ten chapters of the book provide a detailed coverage of clothing appearance and fit. Chapter 1 considers body attractiveness and how it relates to clothing material and design parameters and discusses classical and contemporary theories of beauty. Chapters 2 and 3 present the industry's techniques, methods and standards for assessing clothing appearance and fit and Chapters 4 and 5 review the research and development of objective measurement technologies for evaluating clothing appearance and fit. Fabric objective measurement, fabric properties and garment drape are covered in Chapters 6 and 7 and the R & D of body measurement, anthropometrics and sizing systems are detailed in Chapters 8 and 9. The final chapter reviews published work on garment design and pattern alteration for achieving good clothing appearance and fit.This book is an essential reference for researchers, academics, professionals and students in clothing and textile academia and industry. It includes many industrial standards, techniques and practices. - Offers a critical appreciation of technological developments - Incorporates user-friendly illustrations and photographs - Valuable reference for students, researchers and professionals in the clothing and textile industries

Professor Jintu Fan was awarded a PhD from the University of Leeds in 1989 and is now Professor at the prestigious Institute of Textiles and Clothing at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. He has many publications in the area of clothing science and technology. He has also received the Distinguished Achievement Award of the US Fiber Society.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Fan, J.

Yu, W.

Hunter, L.

Leseproben

Figures
1.1 Golden ration in nature, design and architecture. 2 1.2 Beautiful faces fitted with beauty masks. 4 1.3 Ideal Greek proportions of female figure. 5 1.4 Ideal Greek proportions of male figure. 6 1.5 Female body figures having varying WHR. 7 1.6 (a) Plot of log(VHI) versus log(AR) by male viewers; (b) plot of log(VHI) versus log(AR) by female viewers. 8 1.7 Nine-figural scale of Thompson and Gray, 1995. 10 1.8 Interaction between viewer, clothing, body and environment. 10 1.9 Effect of design on the perception of body proportion. 12 1.10 The perceived body size grades of the thin model, medium model and obese model. 12 2.1 Lighting equipment for viewing test specimens. 16 2.2 View device for pilling assessment. 17 2.3 ICI Pilling Box Tester. 18 2.4 Martindale Tester. 18 2.5 Random Tumble Pilling Tester. 19 2.6 Photographic Comparative Ratings for Single and Double Needle Seams. 21 2.7 Viewing Apparatus for Garments. 23 2.8 Grade scale of yoke position. 24 2.9 Grade scale of armhole position. 24 2.10 Grade scale of buttonhole placket position. 24 2.11 Grade scale of button placket position. 25 2.12 Grade scale of pocket position. 25 2.13 Rating Scale for the Appearance of Wool Suits. 26 3.1 Criteria for qualitative evaluation of clothing fit. 32 3.2 Difference between the (a) new and (b) conventional dress form. 36 3.3 Digital human body model based on anatomical landmarks. 36 3.4 Taninaka’s Dress stand. 37 3.5 Wearer acceptability scale. 38 3.6 Fit evaluation scale. 39 4.1 SAWTRI Wrinklemeter. 44 4.2 (a) The measuring system using laser triangulation; (b) The laser scanner from CyberScan. 56 4.3 Schematic set-up of the image-analysis system. 59 4.4 The 3-D Model Maker laser scanner. 64 4.5 (a) Subjective Grade vs Log(s2) for Yoke seam; (b) Subjective Grade vs Log(s2) for Pocket seam; (c) Subjective Grade vs Log(s2) for Placket seam; (d) Subjective Grade vs Log(s2) for Armhole seam. 66 4.6 Objective evaluation of overall garment appearance. 68 5.1 Moire measurements of the human body. 73 5.2 Schematic setup of the moire system. 74 5.3 Moire image of bra cup. 75 5.4 Moire system for jacket measurement. 75 5.5 Moire image of jacket. 76 5.6 Sectional analysis of clothing fit. 76 5.7 Polynomial curves of centre back profile. 77 5.8 Maternity support. 78 5.9 Outer suit. 78 5.10 Example of a Signature Curve on the bodice. 80 5.11 Cross-sectional profile of body and clothing at the waist line; body shape, clothing shape, calculated clothing shape. 81 5.12 Cross-sectional shape of clothing at the waistline and its derived waveform. 82 5.13 Clothing waveform of different sizes: 9, 11 and 13. 82 5.14 Cross-sectional waveforms of various clothing materials at (a) the hip level, (b) the waist level and (c) the bust levels for a body size no. 9. 83 5.15 Magnitude of the wavelet transform at the bust line waveform of a body size no.9: (a) cross-sectional clothing shape, (b) amplitude of waveform, (c) magnitude of the wavelet transform. 83 5.16 Manufacture of soft mannequin. 84 6.1 Process used by experts in the subjective evaluation of fabric handle. 90 6.2 A history of the textile technology of the twentieth century. 92 6.3 System for the objective evaluation of fabric handle. 95 6.4 The KES-F system for measuring fabric mechanical properties. 98 6.5 Principles used in the KES-F instruments for the objective measurement of fabric mechanical and surface properties. 99 6.6 Typical deformation-recovery curves for (a) fabric extension or lateral compression, and (b) fabric bending or shear, showing the energy loss during a complete cycle as the shaded area. 100 6.7 Relation between the three primary hands and the mechanical properties. 101 6.8 Basis of objective evaluation of KES-FB system. 102 6.9 High TAV zone for suit expressed by the three components. 104 6.10 ‘Tailoring Control Chart’ and high quality zone from wear comfort. 104 6.11 The FAST control chart for light-weight suiting fabrics. 110 7.1 Cusick’s Drapemeter. 116 7.2 Drape image. 116 7.3 Some factors contributing to fabric drape behaviour. 117 7.4 An image analysis system for measuring static and dynamic drape behaviour of fabrics. 118 7.5 Particle-based model. 125 7.6 Visualisation of garment in 3D. 127 7.7 Computer screen of Maya Cloth™. 128 7.8 Cloth simulation in Syflex. 129 7.9 Virtual draping of clothing in My Virtual Model™. 130 8.1 Horizontal sliding gauge and vertical sliding gauge. 136 8.2 (a) Algin Method and (b) Gypsum Method. 137 8.3 Silhouette analyser. 138 8.4 Fujinon Moire Camera in 1980s. 139 8.5 Output of Conusette’s scan. 139 8.6 Digital output from Voxelan laser scanner. 140 8.7 Cubic’s hardware structure. 140 8.8 Close look at CubiCam. 141 8.9 CubiCam’s optical design. 142 8.10 SYMCAD OptiFit. 145 8.11 Schemetic set up of 2D photographic methods. 146 8.12 Schemetic set up of LASS system. 147 8.13 Figure of moire image of human body. 149 8.14 RSI DigiScan 2000. 151 8.15 Figure of TC2 PMP theory. 152 8.16 TriForm 3D Body Scanner. 153 8.17 3D Scanner’s ModelMaker. 154 8.18 Cyberware WB4 Scanner. 155 8.19 Vitus body scanner. 156 8.20 Voxelan’s HEV-1800HSW scanner. 157 8.21 FastScan scanner. 158 8.22 IR Sensor. 158 8.23 LED with PSD system. 159 8.24 Stereo picture. 160 8.25 Schematic diagram of stereoscopy. 160 8.26 Cubic Compact Model and Entire Body Model. 162 9.1 Critical anatomical points. 170 9.2 Key body landmarks....