Volume 2: Developments for Disciplines
E-Book, Englisch, 330 Seiten, eBook
ISBN: 978-0-387-46051-2
Verlag: Springer US
Format: PDF
Kopierschutz: 1 - PDF Watermark
Zielgruppe
Research
Autoren/Hrsg.
Weitere Infos & Material
Biomechanics.- Synopsis of Current Developments: Biomechanics.- Influence of Footwear on In-Shoe Loading for Different Soil Densities.- Validation of a Full-Body Computer Simulation of the Golf Drive for Clubs of Differing Length.- Measurement of Hand Palm Pressures in “La Pelota Vasca” Game.- Analysis of the Relationship Between Mechanical Properties and Players’ Perception of the Balls in a Spanish Traditional Sport: “La Pilota Valenciana”.- Biomechanical Analysis of Running on Third Generation Artificial Soccer Turf.- Evaluation of Energy Expenditure Rate During Continuous Upper Body Cyclic Exercise.- Measurement Techniques.- Synopsis of Current Developments: Measurement Techniques.- Use of the Infrared Based Motion Capture System AS 200 in Sport Science.- Employing Modern Elements of Vehicle Navigation for Integrated Motion Measurement in Sport.- Time-Resolved Measurements of Grip Force During a Golf Shot.- Pacing Lights — a New Approach to Controlling Speed in the Gait Laboratory.- Measuring Equine Ground Reaction Forces.- Examination of a Swimming Dummy’s Flow Field Using Laser Doppler Velocimetry.- Head Accelerations During Soccer Heading.- A New Six Component Dynamometer for Measuring Ground Reaction Forces in Alpine Skiing.- Measurement of Draw-Length Alterations in the Final Pull in Archery.- Power Measurement During Rowing.- Modelling Equipment.- Synopsis of Current Developments: Modelling Equipment.- Large Deflections during Bounce of Inflated Balls.- Finite Element Simulation of Ice Axe Pick Impact on a Semi-Rigid Surface.- Optimization of the Handbike’s Drive Concept — Mathematical Approach.- Using CFD to Understand the Effects of Seam Geometry on Soccer Ball Aerodynamics.- Optimization of a Recurve Bow Riser Using EvolutionaryComputing.- A Preliminary Investigation into Racing Motorcycle Aerodynamics.- A Comparison of Aerodynamic Drag of a Rugby Ball Using EFD and CFD.- Modelling Systems.- Synopsis of Current Developments: Modelling Systems.- Relating Grip Characteristics to the Dynamic Response of Tennis Racquets.- Modelling the ‘run-out’ Throw in Cricket.- Simulation Analysis of Maneuver in Skydiving.- The Measurement of Applied Pressure at Depth with Two Natural Soil Surfaces at Different Densities.- Methods of Simulation and Manipulation for the Evaluation of Figure Skating Jumps.- Computer-Aided Football Training: Exploiting Advances in Distributed Tactical Operations Research.- Modelling and Measurement Equipment in Skiing.- Synopsis of Current Developments: Modelling and Measurement Equipment in Skiing.- Modeling of the Ski-Snow Contact for a Carved Turn.- Improvements of Simulating Approach for Ski Turn.- Influence of Ski Bending Stiffness on the Turning Radius of Alpine Skis at Different Edging Angles and Velocities.- Study on Modification of Ski Referring Characteristic of Ski-Turn (Change of Width and Shoe Center).- A Unified, Custom-built Measuring System for a Ski Athlete.- Analysis of Binding Loads in Snowboarding from Field Data Acquisition.- Climbing — Pulley Mechanics and Taping.- Synopsis of Climbing — Pulley Mechanics and Taping.- Biomechanical Properties of the A2 Pulley in Rock Climbers.- Biomechanics of Finger Pulleys during Climbing.- Biomechanical Model for the Determination of the Forces acting on the Pulley System.- Impact of “Taping” after Finger Flexor Tendon Pulley Ruptures in Rock Climbers.- Mechanical Influence of Finger Taping in Sport Climbing.- Climbing — Technical Aspects of Training and Performance.- Synopsis of Climbing — TechnicalAspects of Training and Performance.- Chronic Exertional Compartment Syndrome of Forearm Flexor Muscles in Rock Climbers — Evaluation of Physiological Standard Pressures.- Relation Between Specific Force Tests and Chained Degree in High Level Sport Climbers.- Dynamic Eccentric-Concentric Strength Training of the Finger Flexors to Improve Rock Climbing Performance.- Strength Measurement and Clinical Outcome after Conservatively Treated Pulley Ruptures in Climbers.- Evolvement and Experimentation of a New Interval Method For Strength Endurance Development.- Testing, Prototyping, Benchmarking.- Synopsis of Current Developments: Testing, Prototyping and Benchmarking.- Test Methods in the Development of Sports Equipment.- The Design and Implementation of a Crash Pad Evaluation System for Speed Skating.- Optimization of the Handbike’s Drive Concept — Experimental Approach.- Sports Surfaces — Impact Assessment Tools.
"6 Climbing - Pulley Mechanics and Taping (p. 233-234)
Synopsis of Climbing- Pulley Mechanics and Taping
Franz Konstantin Fuss
Division of Bioengineering. School of Chemical and Biomedical Engineering, and SPERT (Sports Engineering Research Team). RioMcdical Engineering Research Centre, Nanyang Technological University. Singapore Finger pulleys arc fibrous sheaths. which tic the finger flexor tendons to the bone by avoiding the bowstringing effect. The latter is a separation of the tendons from the bone, which usually occurs after pulley rupture. Although bowstringing would lengthen the moment arm at the finger joints, it increases the relative amount of muscle shortening beyond the limit of force production. Finger pulleys arc divided into weaker cruciatc and stronger annular pulleys. which arc aligned in alternative sequence. The most important pulleys, prone to injuries are: A2 at the proximal phalanx. A3 at the proximal interphalangeal joint, and A4 at the middle phalanx. Finger pulley injuries occur almost exclusively in sport climbing and account for about 45% of finger injuries and about 20X, of all climbing injuries and overuse syndromes. Severe bowstringing occurs only if more than one annular pulley is ruptured. which requires surgical treatment.
Taping. adhesive bandages at finger segments and joints, are said to exert a supportive effect to the pulleys in terms of load sharing. Conventional tape is arranged as circular or figurc-x shaped loops. (sonst noch ctwas wichtiges uber taping"?"). Current research on pulley mechanics and taping extends to
I) accurate measurement of friction between tendons and pulleys.
2) biomechanical influence of taping.
3) biorncchanical model of the pulley loop in axial and side views and its application to surgical pulley replacement.
4) finite clement model of pulleys in side view. with 19 fibres per pulley
5) modelling of pulley ruptures. and
6) development of new taping techniques. especially for injured climbers. and their biomcchanical evaluation
Higher friction between tendons and pulleys would benefit the climber. as this saves muscle force and delays fatiguing. The direct influence of taping on load sharing between tape and pulley is small. about 10%: yet there is an indirect influence. as taping reduces flexion of the proximal interphalangeal joint and thus lowers the load on the pulleys. Exact positioning of a pulley graft during replacement surgery is critical and affects the success of the treatment; biomechanical models can give hints for graft placement, however. they depend on exact input data. Finite clement models of pulleys provide the exact force distribution over the pulley fibres. with peak forces in the mid- and lateral fibres in extended and flexed fingers respectively, Pulley"